After the pillowy, chiseled 2013, Pol Roger's 2015 Brut Blanc de Blancs is cut from richer, broader cloth. Offering up aromas of crisp golden orchard fruit, white flowers and subtle hints of warm biscuits, it's full-bodied, broad and vinous, with a fleshy core of fruit, lively acids and a precise, chalky finish. In style, it's reminiscent of a somewhat more sun-kissed version of the 2012 rendition.

100% Chardonnay. Exclusively grand cru fruit from six villages. Aged six years on lees. Dosage 7 g/l. A fine balance of rich and generous – layered. The palate cut with laser-like acidity. Very long and complex on the finish. Very superior vintage Blanc de Blancs. (AWH)

Very alluring perfume. And then a charmer with real lift, if not density. Strong lemon flavours and persistence. (JR)