Pol Roger's just-released 2013 Brut Vintage is a beautifully chiseled, incisive wine that will appeal immensely to purists. Unwinding in the glass with scents of citrus zest, white flowers, crushed chalk and hints of fresh sourdoughs, it's medium to full-bodied, racy and precise, with a nicely concentrated and tightly wound core, tangy acids and an elegant pinpoint mousse. After the rich, muscular 2012 vintage, the 2013 represents quite a contrast; I'm not sure we'll see its stylistic like again for some time, so readers with classically inclined palates will want to stock up—advice I'll be following myself.

The 2013 Vintage is a rich, effusive wine that beautifully captures the personality of the year in which ripeness and acids are both elevated. Pastry, orchard fruit, citrus peel, spice and dried flowers build in an extroverted, racy Champagne that is an absolute delight. Time in the glass brings out a feeling of weightlessness and translucence that is beguiling. As for the obvious next question….yes, I expect the Churchill will be superb.

Quite a rich nose with come-on appeal – though probably not to a grower-champagne devotee! Firm cooking-apple flavour and apple-skin texture on the palate. Much lighter and more frivolous than the 2012. Just a little light, especially on the finish. (JR)