This pitch-perfect Churchill was the wine of the tasting at 67 Pall Mall’s remarkable 20 year retrospective. Charry, roasted apricot and orange citrus sit beautifully between youth and maturity, with some truffle and dried lime maturity creeping in around the edges. The palate is juicy and moreish, full of raspberries and red plums in spiced syrup, and drawn out in silky length. This will continue to shine for some time in magnum. Tasted in magnum.

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

There's a certain maderisation on the nose. The fruit has a cooked note, but the palate remains balanced and there is plenty of fizz still to enjoy. It's recognisably champagne, and recognisably Pinot Noir with beautiful concentration and definition – despite the baked notes on the nose. (RH)