See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

The most tightly wound, compact wine in this vertical tasting was also, paradoxically, the oldest, but that won't surprise readers who know the 1996 Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill. Opening in the glass with notes of iodine, confit orchard fruit, tangerine, smoke and buttered toast, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and tensile, with a seamless, beautifully balanced profile and a classy, somewhat more reserved, intellectual profile than the younger vintages that followed it. This serious but harmonious 1996 will still improve with additional cellaring.

Tasted from magnum, a consistent notes here with those hints of fresh oyster shell on the nose, mixed with green apple and limestone. Very good weight on the palate with hints of pear drop rendering the finish so pretty and feminine. Certainly out of magnum, one has the sense that this Winston Churchill has barely begun to express itself, but it is certainly shaping up to be a beauty. Drink now-2020. Tasted March 2010.

Bright gold with a lively mousse Deep, pungent nose features powerful scents of minerals, saffron, pear, lilac, buttered apple, pear, white peach and marzipan. Broad and improbably concentrated, the pear and apple flavors packing a huge punch and complicated by buttery, leesy tones. As rich and supple as this is, it also boasts brilliant cut. Finishes with expansive, exotic spice and pear notes, and superb focus and length. This spent nine years on its lees. Already delicious but I'd opt for holding this one for another decade before popping the cork.

From a Berry Bros private client. Disgorged 2007. Tasted blind. Deeper gold than the 2004 in magnum. Mousse is still fresh but not as lively as the 2004. High acid. 1996 bottle? Very tight even though it has quite a bit of development and richness and some bruised apple on the nose – more oxidative. But has great length and intensity. I like the combination of complexity and crisp acidity. Demonstrative rather than elegant but needs drinking in the next few years. (JH)

Caramelised nose, attractive ripe fruit with toffee apple, chamomile, white chocolate. Mature and developed. Charming but perhaps a little frail for its age. (RH)