A statuesque Marilyn Monroe of a Champagne, firm and finely knit, with a beautiful array of baked white peach, almond biscotti, pastry cream and crystallized honey flavors riding the silky mousse. A rich and smoky note of toasted brioche echoes on the chiseled finish. Drink now through 2031.

One of the highlights among this year's new tête de cuvée releases, 2006 the Brut Blanc de Blancs Dom Ruinart is a powerful, almost tannic Champagne built on structure and intensity. Then again, much of the Chardonnay here comes from the Montagne de Reims, where wines tend to naturally be quite broad. Even though it's now ten years old, the 2006 is much less expressive than either the 2002 or 2004 at a similar stage. I expect it will be quite a few years before the 2006 is truly ready to drink. Over the years I have been fortunate to taste Dom Ruinart back to the 1970s, and while I don't think the 2006 will need decades to be at its best, it certainly does look like a long distance runner. There is plenty of citrus and floral driven intensity, although the bouquet is less toasty and open than it often is. In short, the 2006 Dom Ruinart is a wine for those who can be patient. It will be a fine investment for those looking for a wine to cellar to commemorate special occasions.

The 24th rendition of this cuvée since its debut with the 1969, the 2006 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs is showing well, bursting with aromas of blanched almonds, confit citrus, fresh pastry, smoke and iodine. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with a broad attack but sappy balancing acids, the warm vintage making for a textural, vinous wine that nonetheless concludes with a chalky, precise finish. It was disgorged in October 2016 with a dosage of 4.5 grams per liter.

Light and creamy-textured. Rather flattering even if slightly soft. Definitely not rapier-like – more like a kiss on the cheek. (JR)