Disgorged in April 2019, the 2009 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs continues to drink very well, bursting with aromas of crisp stone fruit, confit citrus, wheat toast, bee pollen and smoky reduction. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and charming, it's a pillowy, giving Champagne with excellent depth at the core, tangy structuring acids and a saline finish. Admirers of the Ruinart style will love it.

Chef de cave Frédéric Panaïotis pointed out that 2009 was not especially hot but was notable dry. 82% from grands crus on the Côte des Blancs (Cramant, Chouilly, Avize and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger) and 18% from Sillery on the Montagne de Reims. After eight years on lees this bottle was disgorged in March 2018 and given a dosage of just 4 g/l. Full malo as usual at Ruinart but they don’t like diacetyl and actively try to avoid it. No oak involved. Quite rich, with the lower acid level characteristic of this vintage but very welcoming and drinking well now and with more vivacity than many 2009s. (JR)