This is assertive and grainy in texture, a big-boned Champagne that's powerful and intensely flavored. Biscuit, graphite, honeysuckle, peach and floral notes come together, defined by the firm structure, and last throughout the complex finish. Needs a little more time for the elements to harmonize. Drink now through 2018. 500 cases imported

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.

Pungent, vivid aromas of pineapple, lime, rose petal, honeysuckle and powdered stone. Wonderfully dense and rich but fine-grained, with an almost velvety texture leavened by vibrant, harmonious acidity. A big, pliant, mouthcoating Salon with great ripeness of fruit and subtle floral and mineral notes. Amazingly solid Champagne that really coats the mouth on the explosive, building finish. Offers a rare combination of size and elegance. Deceptively easy to taste today owing to its richness but has the structure to develop in bottle for a decade or two.

Although the 1995 has a rather more open nose than most vintages of Salon (which can be extremely aloof at this early stage), underneath there is Salon's trademark streak of acidity. Not one of the most mature 1995s by any means. (JR)