Back in 2014, Salon's president Didier Depond was quoted in the press as saying that “since 2008, there has been no genuinely great vintage in Champagne" and that a 2012 from Salon wouldn't be released. But the just-released 2012 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil shows that he had good reason to change his mind, as to my palate this is, after the 2008, the finest Salon produced this millennium. Unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus oil, wet stones, freshly baked bread, white currants and oyster shell, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a tightly wound core of fruit, racy acids and an elegant pinpoint mousse. Concluding with a long and resonant finish, this is a structured and powerful Salon that's a lot more incisive than, for example, the 2002 at the same stage, but which also carries more muscle and substance than a leaner vintage such as 2007. For readers that have balked at the pricing of the magnum-only 2008, the 2012 isn't far off the latter's level in quality, and will presumably be distributed more conventionally.

The 2012 Salon pours a pale straw hue and reveals layered aromas that take time to unfold, including delicate lemon curd, a hint of smoke, candied green apple, and very pretty white flowers. The palate is focused and concentrated, with a long spine of energy throughout, offering elegant layers that are all in concert with each other, with salinity, ripe freshness, and the refined texture of the mousse. As it opens, orchard fruits emerge of apricot, croissant, and delicate sherry-like notes of iodine. This is an incredible and timeless wine that will be a pleasure to taste again over the coming decades. Drink 2024-2044. Located in Le Mesnil sur Oger, Salon is dedicated to a sole bottling of Chardonnay that is only produced in exceptional vintages. Eugene-Aimé Salon produced the first vintage in 1905, but it was not declared a brand until 1921. It is crafted from a one-hectare plot behind the house, the Salon garden, and 19 additional small plots across Le Mesnil sur Oger totaling ten hectares. Fermentation and maturation take place in stainless steel tank, and malolactic fermentation is entirely blocked. The wines are rested for an average time of ten years before release. Salon and Delamotte have been part of the Laurent-Perrier group since 1989. The last vintage previously produced was in 2008 and was only produced in magnums, with 9000 bottles made.

This starts off tightly knit, but opens up to aromas of chalk, biscuit, lemon pith and jasmine, then turning to apricot, tangerine peel, pastries and chamomile. Dried apple and hints of mint, dried spice and juniper, too. It’s layered and refined with wonderful complexity. Well-integrated mousse and acidity here, making it so approachable already. Evolves and builds. Drink or hold.

The 2012 Salon is surprisingly, almost shockingly ripe, forward and open, which I put down to the late summer heat wave. The champagne boasts aromas of ripe apples, acacia flowers, and brioche. The texture is velvety, with a fine mousse, decent acid balance, and a plump, lingering finish. Although this lacks the thrillingly vibrant lemony acidity of some vintages, it compensates with an approachable, round feel that is utterly delicious. The 2012 vintage aged eight years on the lees before disgorging with 4g/L dosage and received another year on the cork before shipping.