A very special vintage for this wine, the 2013 Champagne Salon pours a pale yellow/green-tinged color and has a very pretty nose revealing round, pure notes of citrus blossom, a hint of almond pastry, fresh lemon meringue, and pure pear. But while the nose is expressive, the palate is still coiled and intense, with a pure, driving, chalky texture, power, and length, as well as a great deal of electricity that carries through the palate, with a pinpoint, focused mousse. This is going to be a great wine for collectors and for aging over the coming decades. This wine is singing. Comparing it with the Salon 82 and Salon 83 will be one of the great arguments over the years. 5 grams per liter dosage.

The first impression upon release in September 2023 is of surprisingly open, welcoming fragrance for young Salon; orange cream, floral honey and lemon peel, backed up with delicate browned pastry, milky oyster and nut oil complexity that speaks of the long lees ageing. It is taut rather than austere, with a delicate, even level of flesh on its rigid bones as the classic chalky marine squeeze of Le Mesnil takes hold and propels a long, detailed lemon peel finish. This could prove a classic Salon given considerable patience.

2013 is a cool, late-ripening vintage in Champagne, defined by an October harvest in cool but sunny conditions. With a dosage of 5.5 grams per liter, the 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil possesses a complex, fruity bouquet mingling aromas of orchard fruit with notions of lemon oil, exotic fruits, spring flowers, almond and hints of menthol and buttery pastry. Full-bodied, rich and dense, with lively acids, it’s more complex and incisive than the 2002 and exhibits similar power to the 2012 at this early stage. Despite what was a challenging growing season for some producers, this is a superb Salon with a long, resonant finish.

In the context of the vintage, the expressive and structurally open personality of Salon’s 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil took me by surprise. Expecting a taut, incisive version, considering the cool, late-ripening growing season, it shares more similarities with the 2012 rendition than differences. Disgorged in early 2023 with a dosage of 5.5 grams per liter, it soars from the glass with scents of iodine, orange zest and warm bread mingling with hints of tropical fruit. Far from linear, it is a flamboyant and elegantly glossy rendition that’s undeniably fleshier than the racy-fresh and chiseled 2007 at a similar stage of development. Laden with ripe yet vibrant acidity, complemented by a pinpoint mousse and concluding with a precise, vividly chalky finish, it is dangerously approachable even now. However, given its rarity and eye-watering market price, it would be rather hedonistic to pop the corks before it celebrates its 20th birthday. Since 1921, this marks only the 44th edition of Salon.

Aged on lees 10 years. Disgorged March 2023. Dosage 7 g/l. At the moment, disarmingly open and approachable (Didier Depond compares 2013 to 1983 in this respect and expects it to close down in 18–24 months). Subtle biscuit notes on the nose, creamy on the palate with masses of concentration and many layers of texture. Fine mousse with a savoury/salty edge freshening up the finish. Plenty of driving acidity underneath but not at all unbalanced. Clearly a very long future ahead and I suspect it will need to be cellared for at least 5 years if not enjoyed in the first flush of ‘youth’! (AWH)