Based on the 2014 vintage, bottled in 2018 after fully four years' élevage and disgorged in March 2021, Selosse's NV Extra-Brut Largillier (2014) is terrific, offering up aromas of pear, toasted nuts, clear honey, white flowers and dried fruits. Full-bodied, ample and enveloping, it's fleshy but chiseled, with a concentrated core of fruit, tangy acids and a long, saline finish. "I've gotten to know the cellars where I'm working, as well as the site," Guillaume explains; as I result, I suspect this release will have greater aging potential. With this cuvée, Selosse demonstrates that, like his father, he's capable of pushing our conceptions of what Champagne can be to the limit—producing immensely characterful, compelling wines in the process.

See score and full tasting note at champagneclub.com.