Based on the 2011 vintage and disgorged in March 2018, the latest release of Selosse's NV Extra Brut Grand Cru Sous le Mont—derived from a east-facing site in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ not far from the Clos des Goisses. The wine unfurls in the glass with an inviting bouquet of waxy orchard fruit, honeycomb, dried white flowers, smoke and peat. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with a charming, gourmand profile that's simultaneously satiny and saline. WK

Offering up aromas of mint, apricot, smoked peach, white flowers and honeycomb, the NV Extra-Brut Grand Cru Sous le Mont, based on the 2016 vintage, is one of the most exotic wines in the range. Full-bodied, fleshy and ample, it's charming and gourmand, with a generous core of fruit and a long, saline finish.

TheNV Extra-Brut Mareuil-sur-Aÿ Sous Le Mont (2011) is quite delicate and nuanced with attractive floral and savory notes that waft from the glass. Rose petal, mint and sweet red cherry are nicely pushed forward. Most importantly, the Mareuil avoids that slight hint of dryness that has been present in some previous editions. Disgorged February 1, 2018. Dosage is 1.3 grams per liter.

The NV Blanc de Noirs Mareuil-sur-Ay Sous le Mont, based on the 2017 vintage and disgorged in February 2024 with two grams per liter dosage, is difficult to recommend this year. A wine that derives from an east-facing site in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, it is usually much better than this. Unfortunately, this time it is strongly dominated by aromas of champignon de Paris, with an autumnal, bruised-apple profile. 2017 wasn’t an easy year for red grapes in Champagne, with botrytis and powdery mildew pressure, and this site, as it shows, wasn’t immune to the challenges that the end of the growing season presented. Considering the moisture during the harvest, the undesirable mushroom taint appears to be linked to the quality of fruit and emerged later during the élevage. That’s a pity, as the wine is shallower than usual. However, this note should not discourage readers from other renditions of this cuvée.