Based on the 2011 vintage and disgorged in March 2018, the latest release of Selosse's NV Extra Brut Grand Cru Sous le Mont—derived from a east-facing site in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ not far from the Clos des Goisses. The wine unfurls in the glass with an inviting bouquet of waxy orchard fruit, honeycomb, dried white flowers, smoke and peat. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with a charming, gourmand profile that's simultaneously satiny and saline. WK

TheNV Extra-Brut Mareuil-sur-Aÿ Sous Le Mont (2011) is quite delicate and nuanced with attractive floral and savory notes that waft from the glass. Rose petal, mint and sweet red cherry are nicely pushed forward. Most importantly, the Mareuil avoids that slight hint of dryness that has been present in some previous editions. Disgorged February 1, 2018. Dosage is 1.3 grams per liter.