Disgorged earlier this year, Selosse's latest NV Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Substance saw tirage in 2015 and, as usual, derives from a solera established in 1986. Unfurling in the glass with rich and complex aromas of dried fruits, orange zest, saffron, fenugreek, buttered toast and confit peach, it's full-bodied, ample and seamless, with a deep and layered core of fruit, racy acids and a long, resonant finish. As I've contended before, Substance is the cuvée that best exemplifies Selosse's contention (to paraphrase) that an oxidative élevage can purge a wine of the organic, leaving behind only the mineral—in this case, he argues, the imprint of two Avize lieux-dits, Les Chantereines and Les Marvillannes. For admirers of Selosse's wines, that makes it one of the most compelling bottlings in the portfolio, just as his detractors are likely to rank it as his most divisive. William Kelley. Drinking 2023-2025

One of the pinnacles of the tasting with Selosse, unsurprisingly, is the NV Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Substance, a wine with the most complex making, going through four stages of maturation: from barrels to the bottle. As always, it derives from a solera created in 1986. Originally, the wine was sourced from two parcels in Avize, but today the base wine (which eventually contributes only about 4.8% to the final blend in the bottle) is produced from a selection of plots in the village. Guillaume opted to include parcels that best fit the desired balance—sometimes these will be south-facing, other times east or even north-facing sites. Muscular and multidimensional, it jumps from the glass with a bouquet of kaleidoscopic complexity, featuring notes of orange zest, spices, beeswax, toasted hazelnuts and dried fig. On the palate, it is full-bodied, vinous and textural yet searingly chalky—even more mineral than Les Chantereines. Guillaume Selosse remarks that oxidation during maturation (and through multiple transfers between different vessels) frees the wine from fruit in a classic sense, leaving mostly chalky extract and enhancing its mineral aspect. Every time I taste at this great domaine, I vacillate between Substance and the lieux-dits as to which wine best defines this benchmark producer. The latest release was disgorged in July 2024 with 1.5 grams per liter dosage and promises a concentrated, unforgettable drinking experience.

From the solera of reserve wines started in 1986. All Avize. Just 3,000 bottles made each year. Disgorged 16 December 2015. A very special bottle of champagne served at the end of a meal that worked, even with cheese. Wonderfully complex and indeed, Selossian, more like an enlivened super-rich white Burgundy than a fully fizzing champagne. Layered with almond notes. Acidity sufficient but more of a distant memory. Hugely satisfying. (JR)