Taittinger's NV Brut Reserve—a blend of more than 35 different vineyards, assembling 40% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 25% Pinot Meunier, including 30% reserve wines—has a clear, fresh and vinous bouquet with Pinot Meunier flavors in front. Bottled in 2014 and disgorged in March 2017 with nine grams of dosage, this is a lithe and fresh but mouth-filling Brut with round and aromatic fruit. It tastes almost as charming as the Rosé Prestige yet less vinous and is rather lean and fresh. Tasted in November 2017.

Muted on the nose: faint scent of wet pavement, orange peel and a slight mintiness coming through with time. The palate is vibrant with racy acidity, citrus and zesty with modest minerality and a bright, lively finish. Very fine. Tasted March 2008.

Representing a bottling currently circulating in Europe as their self-proclaimed “signature” cuvee, Taittinger’s NV Brut Reserve L3208NA02500 delivers fresh apple and lime on an exuberantly juicy palate, with notes of zest and apple pit adding invigoration to a lusciously lingering finish. Less complex or subtle – not to mention less strikingly buoyant – than its U.S. “La Francaise” counterpart that I tasted alongside, the sweetness of this Reserve renders it all the more vividly apple-y, though that implies a certain sweet-sour tug. Certainly its finish exhibits impressive sheer grip. I imagine that it might become more interesting over the coming year, but I would not hold bottles longer. Imported by Kobrand, Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7700