1998 was a far from easy year, with frost followed by sunburn, and rain before and during the harvest. Those who waited out the rain did well; the 1998 Comtes is a lovely example. It is floral and fresh on the nose, with delicate aromas of citrus and marzipan. On the palate, the true nature of the wine reveals itself - regal and elegant with great finesse and a lingering finish. Still youthful, this will age for decades to come.

The 1998 Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne is simply beautiful. Sweet notes of honey are intermingled with candied citrus peel, flowers, smoke and minerals as this gorgeous wine opens up in the glass. Comtes de Champagne is always an understated, elegant wine, but its pedigree is impossible to miss. Readers seeking instant gratification will find much to admire even today, but this is clearly a wine that has the potential to develop positively in bottle. If past vintages are an accurate indication, the wine should acquire the liqueur-like sweetness in bottle that is its hallmark over time. Old vintages of Comtes de Champagne are unlike any other wine. The Comtes de Champagne is 100% Chardonnay from the grand cru villages Avize, Cramant, Chouilly, Beergers-les-Vertus, Vertus and Mesnil-sur-Oger. A small amount of the wine is aged in new French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2028. This is Lot: L7081UB10000, disgorged February 5, 2007 Taittinger is one of Champagne’s historic houses. The estate is best known for its Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne, a wine that has a strong track record of developing beautifully in bottle, often for several decades after release. While a few bottles in the range aren’t quite up to par, in aggregate this is an impressive showing for a house of this scale. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

(L6202UB02500 etched on bottle) Light yellow. Stony peach and pear aromas are complicated by smoked meat and Asian spices. Round and filled in, with admirably deep pit fruit flavors, a pliant texture and a fresh mineral kick on the finish. Leaves a strong pear impression on the palate and an echo of minerals.

This has an attractive chalky nose with touches of lime and green apples. Very crisp and well defined. The palate is also very delineated and tense with crisp green apple and on the finish. Medium length. Well-crafted. Tasted April 2008.

Magnum. ‘This is our P2’, but they don’t have enough from the original disgorged to commercialise it. The original was disgorged in 2008. Deep gold straw. Smoky nose. Lots of lemon and creaminess. Layers and length. Quite rich. Seems sweeter than the 2007 and 2008. (JR)