The 2002 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne is beginning to drink very well, wafting from the glass with a brilliant bouquet that mingles aromas of pear, citrus confit and dried fruits with notions of marzipan, brioche, oyster shell and smoke. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, broad and textural, with a layered and multidimensional core, considerable concentration and a long, penetrating finish. Racy and precise though the wine is, this is a somewhat broader, richer rendition of Comtes than the compelling 2008 that preceded it in this tasting, but it's hard to choose between the two in terms of quality.

We started with a sensational 2002 Taittinger Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne. My word, this is exquisite, representing everything I adore in champagne. Limpid gold in hue, it has a compelling bouquet of walnut, smoke, dried honey and shucked oyster shells that I found utterly entrancing. The palate does not disappoint, displaying an irresistible rounded texture and perfectly pitched acidity that cuts through the flavors of lemon curd, orange pith and crushed stone. It was as if this champagne tries to give you everything you desire, and does it with such aplomb that you cannot help but be smitten. I have no doubt that it will cruise at a high altitude for many years.

Toast, hazelnut, pears, flowers, lemon peel and honeysuckle open to a refreshing, fresh, concentrated, ripe, sweet, spice, green apple and citrus filled wine with elegant textures and a long, creamy, fat, rich finish. Generally speaking, I'm not wowed by Champagne, but this bottle blew me away! It's one the few Champagnes I tasted that is so good, I am going to buy some to lay down. Tasted Jan 2013

Insanely numb, like it's just recently disgorged. Develops nicely in the glass, completely loaded with fruit, whispering many promises about future glories.

(L2117UB00400): Light, bright gold. A heady, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes lemon curd, pear skin, iodine, honeysuckle and toasty lees, with notes of ginger and honey emerging with air. Strikes an impressive balance of power and restraint, opening slowly to offer vibrant citrus and orchard fruit flavors, along with intense floral and spice nuances. Clings with superb tenacity on the gently smoky finish, which features zesty orange pith and mineral qualities. By the way, the 2004 Comtes de Champagne Rose has become even more intense over the last 12 months, gaining in both mineral and floral intensity. I know the old saw about aging rose Champagne but this is a wine that is built for the long haul.

Disgorged in 2013. Dosage 9 g/l. Tasted blind. Deep straw with a yellowish tinge. Lots of evolution on the nose. Lots of grip and great creamy balance. Masses of pleasure. Hedonistic. Rich yet with tension. Not low dosage though! (JR)