The 2013 Comtes de Champagne captures all the pedigree of this great vintage in its energy, depth and vibrancy. Lemon confit, dried flowers, chamomile, spice and crushed rocks all race across the palate. Passionfruit, ginger, marzipan and mint appear later, filling out the layers beautifully. Harvest took place in October in what has become the exception rather than the norm in Champagne.

The 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne's bouquet is compellingly fresh and minty, revealing aromas of white fruit—notably pear and apple—marzipan and sweet spices, as well as a light touch of citrus mingled with classy autolytic notes. On the palate, this is a structured, tensile and ethereal Champagne with high acidity—a sign of a classic vintage—animated by a mousse of striking finesse and delicacy. Although already enjoyable, it should develop well for several decades.

Tasted six months on from release, the restrained quality of this vintage is shining a little brighter with its lime leaf, floral honey and green mango scents, touches of oyster shell and an emerging floral honey depth, with few signs of outgoing creaminess or nuttiness just yet. Citric juiciness drives the narrow, long palate, perfectly built for ageing; this continues to be a vintage to watch. A blend of all the grand cru villages of the Côte des Blancs.

Something about Blanc de Blancs automatically fires my pleasure receptors – especially when it’s this good. Ripe apple fruit, smoke, toast, butter and a lovely mineral twang as well. Not heavy, but certainly lengthy. A masterclass in Blanc de Blancs. (RH)

Elegantly charred nose with ripe white fruit profile. Youthful, holding back a lot for the time being. Some candy tones and juicy fruit on the vibrant palate of pristine fruit quality. Aptly dosed, deliciously fruity finish. This will greatly reward ageing.