The latest release of Taittinger's NV Brut Folies de la Marquetterie is showing superbly, bursting from the glass with aromas of fresh bread, crisp stone fruit, buttered toast, citrus oil and mirabelle plums. Full-bodied, vinous and fleshy, with an enveloping core of fruit, racy acids and a pillowy pinpoint mousse, it's a gourmand, concentrated wine with the substance to evolve with grace in the cellar.

The rare NV Folies de la Marquetterie Brut has clear, fresh and subtle yet intense and super noble bouquet of fresh Pinot Noir fruit (50%) paired with the freshness and finesse of Chardonnay (50%). It is a full-bodied, round, intense and creamy textured Brut with a serious, persistent structure and the purity, finesse and elegance of Taittinger. The base wines were partly fermented in oak (30%), and malolactic fermentation was not prevented. This beautifully vinous sample was bottled in 2013 and was disgorged in January 2017 with a dosage of nine grams per liter. A great, refined and perfectly balanced Champagne with good length for a still pretty reasonable price. Tasted in November 2017.

(55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay, from a single vineyard in Pierry, due south of Epernay and near Cuis; L1202FC00100): Pale gold. Red berries, rose and orange peel on the fragrant, floral-accented nose and in the mouth. Sappy and broad, with very good depth and an energizing note of chalky minerals. Gains weight with air and finishes with excellent breadth, clarity and lingering mineral and honeysuckle notes. (Josh Raynolds)

– Wine Spectator, December 2012