Vilmart's just-released 2012 Brut Coeur de Cuvée was disgorged in February 2019, and after two years on cork, it remains notably tight-knit. Unwinding in the glass with notes of pear, fresh bread, elderflower, blanched almonds and citrus oil, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with huge depth at the core and an incisive spine of acidity. Long and penetrating, this is immensely promising, but it's going to demand some patience—more so than the 2011 or 2009. It's a brilliant Champagne in the making, but for now, time is the one missing ingredient.

The 2012 Coeur de Cuvée is magnificent. In this vintage Laurent Champs balances the natural intensity of the year with tremendous energy and vibrancy, making for a Champagne of remarkable beauty. Like all the Vilmart wines, the 2012 Coeur de Cuvée is super-refined. Even so, it is also incredibly tight and nowhere near ready. I find its depth, power and tension absolutely compelling. Bright saline notes, spice and floral accents extend the eternal finish. The 2012 is 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. Disgorged: February 2019. Don't miss it!