The 2004 Cristal is nuanced and classy right out of the gate. Hints of lemon confit , marzipan, tangerine oil, spice and chamomile are all suggestive of a Champagne that has arrived at its first inflection point of early maturity. The interplay of slightly more mature notes with a good deal of freshness makes for an incredibly delicious wine to enjoy now. As it turns out, I tasted the 2004 again the following day and found it even more vibrant than the bottles we served at this lunch. This remains one of my favorite vintages here. Two thousand and four was the highest-yielding vintage in Champagne at the time, yet the best wines have always been compelling.

Cristal plays 2004 with a quiet, serene sense of maturity today, still characteristically understated yet full on fine detail; preserved lemon, cashew, nut oil and toasted sourdough bread meet some more savoury, parmesan-like tertiary nuances in a palate that, similarly to the rosé of the same year, is approachable for Cristal while still driving narrow and long. It’s a fine moment to broach this delicate, understated vintage, although there is plenty more in the tank.

Disgorged in 2018, dosage 9 g/l. 57% Pinot Noir, 43% Chardonnay. 21% of the cuvée is fermented in oak. Five years spent on the lees. Big yield. Focused and much greener than the 2005. Not the most energetic until the very end. Lacks a bit of concentration. Very selective because they could afford to be. (JR)