The 2004 Extra Brut Millesime is striking in its beauty. An exuberant, racy wine, the 2004 literally bursts from the glass. Dried pears, almonds, honey, orange peel, spices and savory herbs all flesh out as this rich, resonant wine shows off its considerable class. There is more than enough stuffing in the fruit to stand up to the vinification in oak and the more oxidative notes that are naturally the result of this approach. This is a distinctly rich, overt style, but it works. The 2004 is 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay. Dosage was just 2 grams per liter. Disgorgement date: December 2011.

Light gold. Ripe pear and white peach aromas are lifted by a sexy floral quality. Dense, concentrated and sharply focused, with very good clarity to its sappy flavors of orchard fruits, ginger and buttered toast. Tastes like a cross between a Puligny and Meursault. Finishes silky, dry and very long, with lingering spiciness and intense minerality. Disgorged in May, 2014.

Produced only in the best years from the oldest (50+ years) vines. Always different, but this one is 71% Chardonnay and 29% Pinot Noir. All picked separately and the best 15 hl of the first press. Straight into barrels. Closed with cork. ‘I taste them all and rejected 24 out of 600.’ Dosage 2 g/l. Disgorged January 2013. ‘Oak just adds nervosité’, and there is lots of tension here. Nervy – one of the nerviest wines here. (JR)