2016 Mas de Daumas Gassac, Rouge, Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert

The 2016 Rouge is a stunner. Swirling the glass unlocks magnificent garrigue , crushed violets, cassis pastilles, licorice and verbena tea elements. Built around a core of polished tannins and kept in check by refreshing acidity, the quintessential 2016 superbly marries power and finesse. Closing with a persistent finish, it comes with secure aging potential and deserves a round of applause.

Bottled just two weeks before my visit, the flagship red 2016 IGP Saint Guilhem le Desert was showing very well. A blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, with single-digit proportions of other varieties, it spent a year in barrel (about 15% new oak). It's an herb-tinged wine, with leafy cassis notes and some redder fruit. Medium to full-bodied, it shows typical Cabernet Sauvignon restraint and structure on the palate, accompanied by soft, dusty tannins. Give it a couple of years, but then it should drink well for over a decade.

Tasted blind. Particularly lustrous crimson. Sophisticated, well-integrated blend with intriguing elements of fruit and minerals. (Nothing animal.) Broad and well balanced with some dried-herb elements. A fine wine by any measure even if there is a little heat on the end. Be careful not to serve this too warm. A generous charge of tannin on the end suggests future potential. (JR)

20% each of Viognier, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Petit Manseng and a small amount of about 15 others. Unoaked and no malo. Gorgeously perfumed without being OTT – floral top notes and stone-fruit richness and ripe pear. Very fine grain to the texture adds freshness. Broad in the mouth and has much more freshness on the finish than you might expect. Long and sweet-tasting though I think it is technically dry. (JH)