The 2017 Le Bourg is a classical Cabernet Franc, offering up floral, violet character alongside its characteristic smoky bacon and black tea leaf tones. It's taut and not as burly as the 2018, and I like it for that. Refined, elegant and remarkably delicate on the palate before showing its hand of power and sinew, this is long and delightful.

The 2017 Saumur Champigny Le Bourg exhales a deep, complex bouquet of tomato leaves, cherries, peonies, smoke, bacon, flowers and dark wild berries. Medium to full-bodied, broad and deep, it has structuring tannins and a rustic, austere finish marked by animal (horse sweat) notes.

New barrels. Dense crimson hue. Complex nose with chalk and chocolate notes to the fore. Punchy and powerful with plenty of drive, the tannins plethoric but extremely fine. Power and finesse combined. Huge potential. (JL)