Bright ruby with a hint of garnet at the rim. Fascinating aromas of plum, cherry and wild spices. Suave, discreetly sweet and savory, with enticingly pliant flavors of red fruits, game and sage. Finishes lush and silky, with very smooth tannins and lingering notes of redcurrant and spicecake. Rather Burgundian in character, this cabernet franc is built to age. That said, it is the only cabernet franc from Clos Rougeard that I tasted for this article that is approaching the stage where I would open a bottle.

The 2008 Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux is slightly green on the nose and reveals scents of freshly baked sourdough bread along with graphite, dark fruits, and a touch of raspberries. Straightforward and firm on the palate, this rather light-bodied, just ripe, peppery Cabernet Franc is somewhat austere and slightly drying on the palate, but has a stimulating grip and an authentic character.