I had two bottles of the 20-year-old 1997 Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu Moelleux Première Trie and they were pretty different, as were the Le Mont Moelleux Première Tries from the same tasting. The first Haut-Lieu I opened displayed an intense and luminescent golden-orange color followed by an intense, concentrated bouquet with dark caramel, white nougat, burnt milk and vegetal aromas (legumes). Very sweet but also salty, finessed and vibrantly fresh on the palate, this is a remarkably lithe but intense, tight and complex Haut-Lieu with great tension, finesse and complexity on the powerful, herbal (marjoram), slightly bitter and astringent finish. That bitter and astringent finish convinced me to open the second bottle, just to make sure it was due to bottle variation and not a problem with the wine. In fact, the second bottle was purer, finer, fresher and more precise on the nose, provided with spicy lime rind aromas. This bottle doesn't show any bitterness on the palate but has good grip and mineral tension which balances the sweetness of 83 grams perfectly. This bottling shows great purity, finesse and elegance on the palate, with delicate but persistent salinity. The wine is dense and compact and the apricot fruit is very clear and concentrated, the finish lovely, refreshing and salty. There is still great aging potential for the 1997 Clos du Bourg. Tasted February 2018.

The 1997 Vouvray Le Haut Lieu 1er Trie is crafted from a vineyard composed of clay, as well as calcareous and silica-based soils. It offers floral and sweet mineral aromas that lead to its hugely broad, honeyed character. It is densely packed with tropical fruits (mangoes, papaya, and hints of banana) as well as quince, clay, and honey-flavors. As with its two siblings, it is stupendously long, easily lasting 45+ seconds, moreover, it can be cellared for decades. Projected maturity: 2001-2020+. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel (212) 757-8185.

Full gold colour. Dried apricot and lemon peel, waxy and honeyed and very much in the second stage of its life, where primary fruit has dried up and the complexity is becoming earthy and musty. (RH)