Tasted at Richards Walford in London and again at the Bordeaux Index Huet dinner. With 27.5g/l residual and 6.35g/l total acidity, the Vouvray Le Mont Demi-Sec 2002 has a more expressive on the nose than the 2005, dried honey, lemongrass, wet straw, a touch of mouldy oranges. Very fine definition. The palate is harmonious and elegant, very fine acidity that lends its a femininity, a poise and grace. Lovely dried apricot and spice on the understated but compelling finish. Not a Vouvray that jumps out at you, but beautifully crafted. Tasted September 2009.

Bright gold. Talc, orange zest, pear and white flowers on the nose, along with a touch of pungent herbs. Tangy, finely wrought citrus flavors are given depth and texture by notes of floral honey and bitter pear skin, with a hint of tarragon emerging on the back of the palate. Slow to unfold, but finishes with excellent clarity, lift and persistence. Like 2009 and 2005, 2002 is one of the great vintages here—a year when it was possible to produce all styles at a high level of quality.