A pale, coppery rosé, the 2019 Cotes de Provence Rose Garrus is largely old-vine Grenache with a splash of Rolle (Vermentino). Barrel-fermented and aged almost a year in a mix of new and used demi-muids, it's silkier and more refined in feel than the Les Clans, with the oak playing more in the background. It still hints at pencil shavings on the nose, paired with white peach, cantaloupe and citrus notes, and it is still full-bodied on the palate, but it's silky and fine, with a gentle underlay of stone dust and a long, lingering finish. It should drink well for a couple more summers.

From a single vineyard of nearly 100-year-old Grenache vines, and from Rolle (Vermentino). Fermented and aged in new large French oak barrels for 11 months. See the note on Les Clans 2019 for details of winemaking and the expansion of Ch d'Esclans. Much more character already than Les Clans. Herbily scented and with beautifully integrated acidity and real grip on the palate. Serious wine with real structure and breadth. Very long and reverberant. It's delicious now but in my experience it doesn't age more than a handful of years, which I think will disqualify it from being viewed as the equivalent of one of the world's great wines. (JR)