Dark purple. Pungent aromas of black cherry, blackcurrant, candied licorice and violet, with a suggestion of smoky herbs. Sweet and expansive, with deep flavors of dark berry compote, peppery spices and licorice. More serious than the elegant Chaillot. Finishes with gently chewy tannins and a very persistent smoky quality.

A beautiful Syrah, especially in the vintage, the 2008 Cornas Reynard has a gorgeous perfume of bacon fat, wild herbs, saddle leather, and crushed flowers that’s supported by a vibrant core of black and red berry-styled fruits. Medium-bodied, seamless, and pure, with impeccable balance, integrated acidity, and a classy finish, this opened up over the evening and is already approachable and complex. It will no doubt evolve gracefully for 10-12 years, but there’s no harm in drinking now. Thierry Allemand has been working the steep slopes just outside the town of Cornas since 1982, when he planted his own vineyard. Since then, he has slowly added plots, and now has roughly 10 acres under vine, most in prime spots and granite soils. The winemaking here is very traditional, with little destemming and the wines spending up to two years in older barrels and foudre, with little racking, before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. He normally releases two Cornas; the younger vine cuvee, the Chaillot, which comes from vines from 5 to 40 years in age, and the older vine cuvee, the Reynard, which comes from the oldest vines on the estate (34- to 90-year-old vines). Looking at the 2010s, the wines are more fresh, focused and austere than the 2009s, with additional purity and focus.