More backward, mineral-laced and concentrated, the 2009 Cornas Reynard offers up an incredible, liquid mineral-driven bouquet that includes awesome cassis, ground herbs, violets, tar and crushed stone. This full-bodied effort has brilliant concentration, integrated, yet vibrant acidity and masses of tannin that emerge on the finish. Tasting like the essence of Cornas, this thrilling wine should be given another 2-4 years in the cellar and enjoyed over the following two decades. Thierry Allemand has been working the steep slopes just outside the town of Cornas since 1982, when he planted his own vineyard. Since then, he has slowly added plots, and now has roughly 10 acres under vine, most in prime spots and granite soils. The winemaking here is very traditional, with little destemming and the wines spending up to two years in older barrels and foudre, with little racking, before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. He normally releases two Cornas; the younger vine cuvee, the Chaillot, which comes from vines from 5 to 40 years in age, and the older vine cuvee, the Reynard, which comes from the oldest vines on the estate (34- to 90-year-old vines). Looking at the 2010s, the wines are more fresh, focused and austere than the 2009s, with additional purity and focus.

From old vines in Reynards and Pigeonnier: Sexy black and blue fruit aromas and flavors, with intense spiciness and suave florality. Gentle tannins add shape and fade into the fruit with air. From Reynards: Ripe raspberry and blackberry on the nose, with vibrant mineral and spice qualities and a hint of black pepper. Very sweet and precise, with lively minerality and finishing spiciness.

For a reasonably old wine, this is presenting very very young – especially in the tannins, which are still sandy and tough. Long and austere on the palate, and possibly with a bit of hamster cage on the finish, unusually. Such a tough cookie, and you have to be very forgiving to love its roughshod nature. (RH)