The 2019 Cornas Les Vieilles Vignes is similarly inky colored and has a classic nose of plums, Asian spices, sandalwood, and iron. Medium to full-bodied, with good acidity and ripe tannins, it doesn't have the sheer weight, richness, or girth of the Vieilles Fontaines, yet it's certainly a more classic Cornas that will be approachable with just 3-4 years of bottle age yet evolve for twenty years if you're so inclined.

This is packed with succulent cherry, plum paste and blackberry fruit flavors that show hints of mulled spice, dried anise, singed tobacco and sweet tapenade as they move through. A mouthwatering mineral edge extends the lengthy finish. Cellar patiently, then serve with game for the full seduction. Best from 2024 through 2038. JM

Vivid purple. Displays expansive, finely detailed aromas of blueberry, kirsch, black pepper, violet and exotic spices, with hints of olive and cola in the background. Fleshy and broad in the mouth, offering deeply concentrated black and blue fruit preserve, smoky bacon and floral pastille flavors that are lifted and brightened by a building mineral nuance. Chewy and appealingly sweet on the strikingly persistent finish, which features youthfully chewy tannins and resonating florality.

Now, this is more like it. A big step up from the disjointed Les Chailles, the 2019 Cornas Vieilles Vignes is a classic rendering of Cornas, with hints of crushed stone, mint, blueberries and red berries on the nose. It's medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated enough, yet it's not overbearing or heavy; it’s just deliciously drinkable and will drink well for more than a decade. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.

Cask sample. Tasted blind. Savoury and tabasco nose. Fresh acidity on the palate with earthy notes and finely grained tannins. Bacon fat and spice with firm tannic structure. Very backwards at the moment. (AC)