Glass-staining violet color. Deeply perfumed, smoke-accented blackcurrant, cherry, smoked meat, vanilla, olive and exotic spices on the intensely perfumed nose. Shows excellent depth of flavor but comes off surprisingly energetic as well, offering mineral-driven black and blue fruit, bacon fat, olive paste and candied violet flavors that firm up steadily as the wine gains air. Polished, building tannins add shape to an impressively long, smoky finish that strongly echoes the floral, mineral and spice notes.

The sample presented of Voge's 2020 Cornas Vieilles Vignes was reassuringly excellent, with gently lifted, floral scents of violets, cassis and crushed stone. Full-bodied, deep and powerful, concentrated and rich but still almost painfully unformed, this needs time in the cellar. It's a blend of several parcels, aged in barrel but with just 15% or so new oak.

100% Syrah. Cask sample. Deep colour to rim. Firm and solid with a sort of ferrous, dark-fruit expression. Layers of fruit on the palate with very fine but present tannins. Freshness and balance and drive on the finish. Should age. (JL)