The limited cuvee of 100% old vine Roussanne (50% vinified in barrel and 50% in tank), the 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape blanc Vieilles Vignes is an extraordinary wine. Since the debut vintage in 1986, I have been unable to figure out how to predict this cuvee’s aging potential, but I tend to agree with most sommeliers who feel this wine needs to be drunk in its first 4-6 years of life, then not touched again until age 12-15. It is so amazing, I usually drink it as quickly as I can get my hands on a few bottles. The sensational 2006 possesses a wonderful honeysuckle note interwoven with marmalade, tropical fruit, peaches, and buttery pastry characteristics, and zesty acidity despite a thick, full-bodied, rich texture. It is difficult to find a better white Chateauneuf du Pape than Beaucastel. Much like their reds, their whites are made in a style that is atypical for the appellation. It is put through full malolactic, and one-third is barrel fermented, then blended with the two-thirds that is aged in tank. Extraordinarily rich and honeyed, it is ideal for drinking with intensely flavored culinary dishes. Beaucastel and its subsidiary wines marketed under the Perrin et Fils moniker are consistently among the bright shining stars of France. I have been visiting this estate for nearly thirty years, and over that time I have seen all the elements of what makes wines great – an incredible respect for the vineyards, a conscientious, uncompromising work ethic, and extraordinary passion for gentle handling of fruit from their sites. Brothers Jean-Pierre and Francois Perrin seem to be gradually inching closer to retirement as their sons take more and more of a front row seat in the running of this outstanding estate. This is a marvelous portfolio of wines, from the extraordinary values, to the top-end world classics. While one could say this is as traditionally run estate as can be found in western Europe, the Perrins are remarkably flexible if they sense that quality can be improved. Quality rises dramatically with the Perrin et Fils cuvees. The Cotes du Rhone Reserve wines are produced primarily from the estate vineyards at Grand Prebois and Vinsobres, with some purchased fruit from such Cotes du Rhone appellations as St.-Gervais. Marc Perrin, who is responsible for winemaking at Perrin et Fils, seems to go from strength to strength with this line of wines, which includes negociant bottlings as well as some from estate vineyards in Vinsobres. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The very limited production and single greatest white wine of the southern Rhone is their 100% Roussanne cuvee from 50+-year-old vines, the 2006 Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes white. This is a sensational wine, with notes of lychee, marmalade, and exotic fruits such as mango in addition to more classic notes such as poached pear and buttered brioche. The wine is full-bodied, unctuously textured, but not heavy or plodding. This is a masterpiece of white winemaking that is full-bodied, powerful, and should drink beautifully for 4-6 years before it heads into unknown territory. My guess is that this will rebound in about 12-15 years time and last for 25-30 years.

The spicy character that this cuvée develops with age is starting to come out now, giving it a sense of freshness and some piquant spicing on the palate too: cumin and saffron, along with a distinctly saline slant and a touch of oak spice. Only medium-bodied, this is a very well-balanced and harmonious vintage – refined, not showy and quietly impressive. From a single parcel of Roussanne, planted in 1919 and grown biodynamically. Aged in one-year-old demi-muids and barriques. Maximum of 6,000 bottles per year.

Along with a deep gold color, the 2006 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Cuvée Roussanne Vieilles Vignes exhibits spectacular aromatics of rich tropical fruits, flower oil, toasted nut, and minerals. While fresh and vibrant, this shows a touch more richness and base notes to the ‘05’s vibrant purity. On the palate, the wine is full bodied with a full, rich texture, perfect balance, loads of structure, and a long finish. Simply superb.

Yellow-gold. Smoky pear and apricot aromas are deepened by fig, cured meat and anise. Rich and fleshy in texture, offering sweet orchard and pit fruit flavors along with candied flowers and licorice, and picking up subtle baking spices on the finish. There's outstanding energy and cut for such depth and palate-staining concentration. The yield here was a meager 17 hectoliters per hectare, according to Perrin.

Still very youthful and dumb on the nose at the moment but with lots of extract and great roundness on the palate. Lovely texture though a slightly bitter note on the finish at the end of 2007. Extremely rich underneath. (JR)