One of my favorite whites in the world is the old vine Roussanne cuvée from Beaucastel, which comes from a single 3-hectare parcel just outside the domaine, in the northern, cooler part of Châteauneuf du Pape. The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes is another thrilling example of Roussanne and offers a vivid gold hue as well as gorgeous notes of white currants, honeysuckle, white flowers, crushed stone, and hints of gunpowder. With beautiful freshness, full-bodied richness, and ample power, it’s unquestionably the Montrachet of the Southern Rhône and a magical white. You can safely drink bottles anytime over the coming decade, then it’s best forgotten until around 20 years after the vintage. Château de Beaucastel is located in the cooler, windier, and more pebbly clay soils of the northern part of Chateauneuf du Pape, and as such, were less affected by the devastating outbreak of mildew in the spring of 2018. In addition, Mourvèdre fared much better than Grenache in the vintage, all pointing to a great vintage for this estate in what was a more challenging vintage for much of the appellation. Marc compared 2018 to 2001 last year, and while I don’t think the quality, or concentration, is quite at that level, the purity of the tannins as well as elegance found in their 2018s share similarities to the 2001s. The 2019 whites from this estate showed beautifully, and these are world-class wines that deserve a place in every wine lover’s cellar. The general rule with the whites is to enjoy bottles on release and over the following 5-7 years, then they are best forgotten until around age 20.

There are a mere 500 cases of the 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, which derives from vines planted in 1909. Showing fabulous richness and opulence allied to an impeccable sense of balance and nearly infinite persistence, it's a tour de force of white Châteauneuf. Hints of roasted pineapple and grilled lime mark the nose, while the medium to full-bodied palate boasts layers of honeyed, creamy decadence yet remains dry, zesty and refreshing at the same time. Like most great wines, it's a study in seeming contradictions drawn together into seamless elegance. While there's a chance this wine may go through a quiescent phase, it's singing now, and if history is any indication, it will also drink well in a decade or so.

Very powerful, rich and generous on the palate. The acidity is low, even for this cuvée, but there is an inner freshness. The oak is somewhat to the fore at present, so I would wait for it to integrate, but there's a lovely sense of southern generosity, while it's not quite as fresh as the 2020 or 2021. Beginning to take on some subtle nutty hints, this wine comes from a single parcel of Roussanne, planted in 1919 and grown biodynamically. Aged in one-year-old demi-muids and barriques. Maximum of 6,000 bottles per year.

100% Roussanne. Above is the oak selected by the Perrins for ageing the 2023 vintage of this wine. See more about oak in Matthew Hayes' article . Gorgeous nose, toasted and nutty, a rich almond and hazelnut character. Subtle peach character underneath the golden-apple fruit, the creamy mouthfeel is supported by balanced freshness. Long fine finish, rich but also refined and defined – layered, and with age this will be a stunner. (AC)