I was more than pleasantly surprised with the 1999 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape and it's drinking amazingly well. Sporting a dark red, opaque color as well as a big, rich nose of earthy blackberry fruit, mushroom, tar, and garrigue aromas, this has surprising density, ripeness and depth to the aromas. With air subtle roasted herb notes show up and while not terribly complex, it is not primary or simple. Medium bodied and balanced; this isn't a blockbuster and shows nice balance, ripe fruit and a clean, precise texture that leads into a medium length, enjoyable finish.

Full ruby. Highly complex nose combines black fruits, gibier, truffle, road tar, licorice and leather. Very intense and spicy, but still tightly wound, with a firm acid spine keeping the flavors under wraps. "Very interior wine today," notes Perrin. But one already senses the incipient complexity. Finishes with building tannins, a note of caramel and terrific persistence. This will need time.

The prodigious 1999 Beaucastel boasts aromas of blackberry fruit intermixed with cassis, licorice, roasted meats, leather, and truffles. While it does not possess much fat or precociousness, it displays definition and elegance. This is a full-bodied, concentrated, classic Beaucastel. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2025.

The prodigious 1999 Beaucastel boasts aromas of blackberry fruit intermixed with cassis, licorice, roasted meats, leather, and truffles. While it does not possess much fat or precociousness, it displays definition and elegance. This is a full-bodied, concentrated, classic Beaucastel. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2025. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802