The 2017 Châteauneuf Du Pape is another sunny, beautifully Provençal effort that has a huge nose of garrigue, raw steak, leather, truffle, and peppery spice. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated, and balanced, it’s not a massive Beaucastel yet it has a classic, Provençal, incredibly satisfying style that will benefit from 4-6 years of bottle age and keep for two decades. One of the reference point estate in the Rhône Valley, as well as the entire wine world, is that of the Perrin Family’s Château de Beaucastel. Located in the northern, cooler part of the appellation, the estate covers roughly 100 hectares of vines from which they produce a red and white Côtes Du Rhône (from vines just outside the appellation), two Châteauneuf du Pape whites, and two Châteauneuf du Pape reds. Looking at the Châteauneuf du Papes, both whites are Roussanne dominated, with the Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc being roughly 80+% Roussanne, and the Roussanne Vieilles Vignes cuvée being 100% Roussanne. The Roussanne Vieilles Vignes is one of the greatest whites made in the world in just about every vintage and while it drinks beautifully young (a recent bottle of the 2014 was off the charts) it also has the capacity to evolve for decades. As to the reds, the classic cuvée comes all from vines around the estate and is unique for its high Mourvèdre content, with the blend normally in the realm of 35% Mourvèdre, 25% Grenache, and the rest Syrah, Counoise, and other permitted varieties. Aging occurs in a mix of barrels and foudre. The flagship Hommage A Jacques Perrin cuvée comes primarily from a single parcel of 90+-year-old Mourvèdre vines located just behind the estate. Raised in foudre, it’s a powerful, singular, exotic expression of this variety, and there’s no one out there that does it better.

There's richness and amplitude to the forest berry fruits, blackberry, raspberry, blackcurrant bush. Amplitude on the palate too, this is very generous, mouthfilling, with enough acidity to meet the alcohol, which doesn't feel excessive. Tannins are much more rounded and buffed compared to the Coudoulet. There's a good sense of freshness, it feels quite dynamic on the palate for such a concentrated, structured vintage of Beaucastel; the Mourvèdre really makes itself known. Very good, but still very young; I would hold until 2027 before opening, though there's certainly pleasure to be had now. 30% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Counoise, 15% Vaccarèse, Terret Noir, Muscardin, Clairette, Picpoul Blanc, Picardan, Bourboulenc, Roussanne and Cinsault. Grenache and Cinsault fermented in cement, Syrah and Mourvèdre fermented in foudre.

Now that it's in the bottle, Beaucastel's 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape comes across as full-bodied and rich, but also a bit shut down and reticent on the nose. With air, black olives and asphalt give way to black cherries and briery spice notes, backed by velvety but substantial tannins and a long, richly textured finish. Given a few years in the cellar, I have no doubt this will drink well for the next 15-plus years.

The maturity of the roussanne is immediately apparent with such richness, ripeness and attractive fleshy drive on the palate and a phenolic structure that sustains the length handsomely. Concentrated and super fleshy. A blend of 60% roussanne, with grenache blanc and other varieties. Drink over the next eight years.

Dark bright-rimmed ruby. Ripe black and blue fruit liqueur, incense, smoked meat and candied lavender qualities on the deeply perfumed, spice-accented nose. Broad and fleshy in the mouth, offering intense black raspberry, bitter cherry and fruitcake flavors that tighten up and turn livelier with air. Shows plenty of energy for a hot-vintage wine and finishes impressively long and chewy, with mounting tannins and repeating smoke and floral notes.