At the moment, Beaucastel's 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape bucks the vintage trend toward open, expressive wines, seeming a bit closed on the nose and tight on the palate. It also shows a bit more depth and tannin than many of its peers. A blend of 30% each Grenache and Mourvèdre, with 15% Syrah, 10% Counoise and smaller amounts of other permitted varieties (including some white grapes), it delivers hints of mixed red berries and garrigue, a medium to full-bodied feel in the mouth, some dusty tannins and a long, mouthwatering finish. Give it another couple of years to soften and reopen, then drink it over the next decade and a half.

A tight and compelling tannic structure, muscular and knitted down at this stage, rich and concentrated with blackberries and olive paste. Needs a few years, but already you can discern the floral aromatics that overlay the core, and this is going to evolve into a beautiful Beaucastel. Organic. Blend completed by 10% Counoise, 10% blend of Vaccarese, Terret Noir, Muscardin Clairette, Picpoul, Picardan Bouroulence, plus 10% Roussanne and 5% Cinsault.

Moving to the reds, the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape showed nicely with a deep ruby/purple color as well as classic Beaucastel aromas and flavors of darker currents, blueberries, smoked meats, black licorice and roasted herbs. With medium to full-bodied richness, a pure, clean, elegant texture, sweet tannins, and a great finish, this seamless, elegant Beaucastel will be approachable in its youth, yet still have 20+ years of prime drinking. Château de Beaucastel is located in the cooler, windier, and more pebbly clay soils of the northern part of Chateauneuf du Pape, and as such, were less affected by the devastating outbreak of mildew in the spring of 2018. In addition, Mourvèdre fared much better than Grenache in the vintage, all pointing to a great vintage for this estate in what was a more challenging vintage for much of the appellation. Marc compared 2018 to 2001 last year, and while I don’t think the quality, or concentration, is quite at that level, the purity of the tannins as well as elegance found in their 2018s share similarities to the 2001s. The 2019 whites from this estate showed beautifully, and these are world-class wines that deserve a place in every wine lover’s cellar. The general rule with the whites is to enjoy bottles on release and over the following 5-7 years, then they are best forgotten until around age 20.

Deep ruby. Cherry, blueberry, smoky mineral and pungent floral qualities on the perfumed nose, along with spice and garrigue flourishes. Sappy and well-concentrated red and dark fruit preserve flavors show surprising and welcome energy for their depth and pick up candied lavender and spice nuances as the wine opens out. Closes very long and lively, with chewy tannins framing floral pastille and dark berry notes.

Tank sample. Raspberry and redcurrant, milk chocolate, really juicy and effusive. Front-loaded with fruit right now, but it has the structure and density to last. Another classic, and perhaps not as strong as the 2017 but still one of the best of the vintage. (RH)