Wine Advocate October, 2007 The dense ruby/purple-colored 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Marie Beurrier possesses fabulous fruit, very good acidity, a tightly-knit, tannic style with plenty of power and richness, but it remains firm. It will undoubtedly spend another two years in ancient wood, so the tannins will no doubt soften, and the wine should expand in flavor as well as texture. It will not be drinkable for 7-8 years, but it should age for 25-30 years.

Deeper in color than the Celestins, as well as more backward, austere and rough around the edges, the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Marie Beurrier has an edgy, focused feel in its darker currant, black cherry, leather and bouquet garni-like bouquet. This flows to a medium to full-bodied, nicely concentrated Chateauneuf du Pape that has high acidity, still noticeable tannin and a firm finish. While this lacks the depth and richness found in the Celestins, and the acidity will be something to watch, I think it will be a long-lived effort that will still be drinking nicely in 2025.

The dark ruby-hued 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Marie Beurrier (probably) seemed very tannic and austere as well as full-bodied and powerful, but the tannin levels are significant. That characteristic has not changed over the last several years. Henri Bonneau, who is now 70 years of age, continues to make Chateauneuf du Pape the way it was made 50-100 years ago ... long cask aging in old barrels and bottling it, as he says jokingly, “when I need money.” A visit to these cellars is always one of my most rewarding of the year. The barrels and foudres that will probably be used in the Cuvee Marie Beurrier all have the letter “G” on them and everything with Reserve des Celestins potential has the letter “P” on it. Bonneau went through a litany of the issues that confronted the 2009 vintage, particularly the drought that affected much of the Grenache planted in many of Chateauneuf du Pape’s terroirs, and he reminded me that he had predicted it would be a problem when I saw him last year. Bonneau continues to claim the 2007s are too showy and flamboyant to ever develop into a great, long-lived vintage. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173