Inching closer and closer to the celestial 1990, is the 1989. This cuvee was fabulous when tasted in Bonneau’s cellars, but it closed down after bottling. Possibly even more powerful and tannic than the 1990, as well as more backward, the 1989 looks to be a great classic. It is a Reserve des Celestins to forget for another 3-8 years. It possesses all the characteristics of the 1990, but everything is packed into a more linear personality. Amazing stuff! Anticipated maturity: 2009-2035. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173

Representing the essence of traditional Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the 1989 Réserve des Célestins is an incredibly perfumed wine that almost gushes ripe garrigue, wild herbs, and spice aromas on the nose. More beef blood, leather, and fruit characteristics develop with air, but it’s the sweet perfume of garrigue that defines this wine aromatically. Full bodied on the palate, very concentrated and amazingly pure, this is still tannic and structured, but possesses more than enough flesh to make it a heavenly drink at this stage. A blockbuster in every sense of the word, this still needs another 3-5 years in the cellar to hit full maturity.

This is the best Bonneau wine I've ever had. Fine, complex, rich, layered nose and the palate is, despite all this richness, incredibly precise. Notes of treacle/molasses but there is vibrant freshness too. Very exciting. What a treat. Trounced the two 1989 Hermitages served immediately beforehand. (JR)