The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins might be the wine of the vintage and got a big “Wow” in the notebook. Thrillingly perfumed, with kirsch, currants, herbs de Provence, dried meats and spice-like aromas and flavors, it is an absolute knockout on the nose. This is all backed up by full-bodied richness in the mouth, and it possesses terrific mid-palate depth, layers of sweet tannin and a finish that pumps out plenty of sweet fruit. I don’t know when it will be bottled, but certainly, I was blown away by the wine. - Jeb Dunnuck (eRobertParker.com)

Inky ruby. A heady bouquet evokes ripe dark fruits and incense, with intense mineral and floral nuances adding complexity. Reaches every corner of the palate, offering sweet boysenberry and blackberry flavors that gain energy and spiciness in the glass. Tannins make a late appearance but are smoothly folded into this wine's lush, concentrated fruit. Deep but lively, finishing with outstanding clarity and length.

Even better, the 2009 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve des Célestins is similar to the Marie Beurrier, yet has additional concentration, mid-palate depth and sweet tannin. The balance here is superb, and it gains more and more structure with time in the glass. There’s plenty of similarities to the ’07 (and to a lesser extent, the 2011), and given this showing, it should have a broad drink window.

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins (probably) possesses great intensity as well as that beef blood, super-concentrated nose of figs, black currants, earth, pepper and spice. Flamboyant, full-bodied, rich, chewy and dense with slightly more elevated tannins than the Marie Beurrier as well as additional concentration, it should drink well for 20-25 years. Henri Bonneau, who is now 70 years of age, continues to make Chateauneuf du Pape the way it was made 50-100 years ago ... long cask aging in old barrels and bottling it, as he says jokingly, “when I need money.” A visit to these cellars is always one of my most rewarding of the year. The barrels and foudres that will probably be used in the Cuvee Marie Beurrier all have the letter “G” on them and everything with Reserve des Celestins potential has the letter “P” on it. Bonneau went through a litany of the issues that confronted the 2009 vintage, particularly the drought that affected much of the Grenache planted in many of Chateauneuf du Pape’s terroirs, and he reminded me that he had predicted it would be a problem when I saw him last year. Bonneau continues to claim the 2007s are too showy and flamboyant to ever develop into a great, long-lived vintage. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173