This defines old school, with savory detail and notes of roasted chestnut, fresh tobacco leaf, cedar and brick dust leading off, backed by a core of currant, cherry and plum fruit flavors that is lightly dried yet nonetheless fresh and racy in feel. Singed juniper and bay leaf hints score the finish. Likely to hold just like this for some time. JM

According to Marcel Bonneau on this visit, all of the 2012 wine will be bottled as Reserve des Celestins. Tasted from barrel, the 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins flirts with that fine line between deep, chocolaty richness and raisiny over-ripeness. This is full-bodied and powerful but silky at the same time. If it's bottled soon, it should be amazing. JC

Scheduled to be bottled in October (it’s probably already in bottle), the 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve des Célestins is gorgeous stuff and has everything you expect from this estate. Black currants, garrigue, beef blood and ground pepper all give way to a ripe, sexy and full-bodied beauty that has sweet tannin. I’m quite sure Henri would snub his nose and call the wine too easy, in his gregarious way, but count me as a fan.

Deep ruby. Highly perfumed aromas of cherry compote, blueberry, anise and smoky herbs, with a suave potpourri flourish adding complexity. Juicy, expansive and concentrated, offering intense, spice-accented black and blue fruit flavors and a touch of floral pastilles. Fine-grained tannins build slowly on the very long, focused finish, which leaves a sexy lavender note behind. Josh Raynolds