Reminiscent of the 1990, the dense ruby/purple-tinged 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac is an astonishingly full-bodied, opulent, flamboyant wine displaying an extraordinary bouquet of incense, lavender, kirsch, resin, the seaweed wrappers used in sushi restaurants, and licorice. Chapoutier’s single vineyard Chateauneuf du Papes represent two different areas of the appellation, with the Barbe Rac coming from the western corridor, not far from the Plateau of Mont-Redon. Chapoutier has adjusted the manner in which he ages these cuvees, as they are now completely aged in tank. Made from a minuscule 10 hectoliters per hectare, it reveals great texture, an amazing finish, and riveting overall balance and purity. It should hit its peak in 3-5 years, and last for 20-25. Both the Barbe Rac and Croix de Bois are 100% Grenache. Michel Chapoutier continues to expand his considerable empire throughout southern France. Recently he purchased Jean Marchand’s Domaine des Pontifes in Chateauneuf du Pape, so I would not be surprised to see a third luxury cuvee of Chateauneuf du Pape emerge from this passionate biodynamic producer of Rhone wines. The less expensive Chapoutier offerings continue to increase in quality. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847)-604-8900

This is much tighter on the nose than the Croix de Bois, more stony with blackberry leaf, a touch of hedgerow. This is very supple, spicy with a certain femininity to it, although it just lacks a little weight and persistency on the finish. Still very fine, very pure and honest. Amazing precision and sense of symmetry. Drink 2010-2020. Tasted March 2008.

Bright ruby. Seductive bouquet of ripe red berries, roasted herbs and potpourri. Fleshy and deeply concentrated, offering slightly warm raspberry and cherry compote flavors with a hint of smoke. Creamy on the finish, delivering a serious wallop of rich red fruit and a bit of heat. Impressive for its power but this will be a tough match at the table.