The 1999 Ermitage l'Ermite is a wine that borders on perfection compared to its backward performance last year from barrel. Sadly, there are usually 500-600 cases of the cuvee, but in 1999 only 400 were produced. It comes from Chapoutier's oldest vines (most over 100 years of age), and represents the essence of both Hermitage and Syrah. From bottle, the 1999 l'Ermite reveals an old style Lafleur character in its kirsch liqueur intermixed with raspberries, blackberries, and striking minerality. It has put on considerable weight since last year, but is essentially an elegant, ethereal effort with incredible intensity as well as amazing lightness. It is a phenomenal expression of terroir. However, be forewarned, anyone expecting to derive a lot of pleasure from this before another fifteen years elapse, will be disappointed. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2060.

The 1999 Ermitage l'Ermite is a wine that borders on perfection compared to its backward performance last year from barrel. Sadly, there are usually 500-600 cases of the cuvee, but in 1999 only 400 were produced. It comes from Chapoutier's oldest vines (most over 100 years of age), and represents the essence of both Hermitage and Syrah. From bottle, the 1999 l'Ermite reveals an old style Lafleur character in its kirsch liqueur intermixed with raspberries, blackberries, and striking minerality. It has put on considerable weight since last year, but is essentially an elegant, ethereal effort with incredible intensity as well as amazing lightness. It is a phenomenal expression of terroir. However, be forewarned, anyone expecting to derive a lot of pleasure from this before another fifteen years elapse, will be disappointed. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2060. With respect to Chapoutier's red wines, 2000 was a very fine vintage. Interestingly, this offering revealed more fat and flesh than many of his northern Rhone peers. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000

Bright full ruby. Nose more dominated by the wood: mocha, smoke, bitter chocolate. Very tightly wrapped and minerally; in need of aeration. This has fruit of steel. Finishes with fine tannins and great subtle persistence. This extremely backward Hermitage should be very long-lived. Michel Chapoutier considers this one of the best wines he made to date.

Very lustrous shaded dark ruby. Tight, almost medicinal nose. Exceptionally concentrated wine. Smells almost medicinal – even more like a poultice than fruit on the nose initially then very dry on the end. But with time in the glass this opened out to leather and black pepper on the nose and really sweet fruit on the mid palate before finishing bone dry. Only medium weight and still with some grainy tannins. No hurry at all to drink this. And do decant and aerate it before serving. Quite a tghtly-wound monster! (JR)