The 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite is another wine that’s a candidate for the wine of the vintage, if not the best wine produced in all of France in 2013. As normal, it has an insane level of minerality, and frankly, I know of no better description of “liquid rock” than the mineral-like sensation induced by tasting this cuvee. Graphite, charcoal, licorice and sweet crème de cassis also all emerge from the glass. This gorgeous 2013 has full-bodied richness, terrific purity, ripe tannin structure and serious intensity. Give it 4-5 years and drink bottles over the following 2-3 decades.

More backwards, tight and structured than either the Méal or the Pavillon, the 2013 Ermitage l’Ermite was similarly completely destemmed and raised in a scant 30% new French oak. Inky purple/blue colored, it reluctantly yields incredibly mineral-laced notes of charcoal, liquid rock, cassis, black currants and graphite. While it’s less approachable than either of the two other Hermitages, it has fabulous density and depth, ripe tannin and incredible persistence on the finish. Hide these in the cellar for a decade, and enjoy over the following three to four decades. Jeb Dunnuck >

100% Syrah grown on shallow, sandy brown soils over Tournon granite at the top of the hill of Hermitage. 120-year-old vines picked very late. 100% destemmed grapes were vinified in concrete and macerated four to six weeks at temperatures sometimes over 30 °C. 20% of the wine was aged in new barrels, 20% in second-use barrels, 30% in third-used and so on. Deep crimson. Very firm and very Syrah with real depth but, interestingly, the nose deteriorated in an opened bottle – not as fast as a Pinot but almost – perhaps because it's already 10 years old. Unusually fruity initial impact and some real delicacy (who'd have thought it?!) on the palate. I see that I noted this energy back in 2014 . (JR)