The 490-case 2017 Ermitage L’Ermite comes from a mix of granite and limestone soils and was brought up all in demi-muids. It offers a fresh, focused, chiseled style that has awesome minerality as well as crème de cassis, graphite, crushed violets, burning embers, and bacon fat that develops beautifully with air. With a huge, layered mid-palate, brilliant concentrated, ultra-fine tannins, and a finish that won't quit, it’s unquestionably one of the most impressive wines in the vintage. Give bottles 7-8 years and enjoy over the following 25. This was another stunning tasting with the team at Chapoutier. They’ve produced some of the wines of the vintage in both 2017 and 2018. The team here compares 2017 to 2007, which is a comparison I understand, even if I think the quality of their 2017s are a step up. Both vintages were hot and dry, and the wines have expressive, sunny profiles. I reviewed their top 2017 dry whites last year, but the 2017 reds showed spectacularly well this year, most coming in at the upper end of their barrel range. Looking at the 2018s, this is another blockbuster year at this estate and the wines reveal even deeper purple (almost blue) hues compared their 2017 counterparts as well as a touch more freshness in their aromatics reminiscent of a cooler vintage. Nevertheless, these are big, rich, concentrated wines that have building tannins and structure as well as loads of fruit, and are built for the cellar. One of the beauties of the 2018s is that the wines have a wonderful sense of freshness and purity reminiscent of a cooler year, yet paired with the fruit, depth, and richness of a warmer year. Lastly, the lineup here seems to grow each year and at present, includes two sparkling wines, three Saint-Péray, two Condrieu, two Cornas, four Côte Rôtie, six Crozes Hermitage, nine Hermitage, and six Saint Joseph. Also, there are a handful of Vin de France and IGP releases. The top “Sélections Parcellaires” cuvées range from 300 to 1,000 cases, and while they can be frightfully expensive, they’re among the greatest wines in the world. However, don’t overlook the value releases from Chapoutier, where you get serious bang for the buck.

Harvested on 13 September at a yield of 20 hl/ha, this wine spends 18 months in barriques and demi-muids, 25% new - representing a move away from oak influence in Chapoutier's Hermitage range. This is very powerful and assertive - almost hard to bear smelling it at this stage. It's very full-bodied, more so than usual, but still with that tell-tale straightness and acidity. It has incredible power and thrust, direct like an arrow, with intense, serrated, driving tannins.

This is a showy parcel that has delivered such attractive, ripe and concentrated dark cherries and plums in 2017 with abundant dark spices, pepper, grilled meat and flowers. Very plush, silky and open tannins carry a wealth of flavor. Long and regal with so much ripe dark berries and cherries on offer. Drink or hold.

100% Marsanne. Biodynamic. Harvested 4 September. Includes pre-phylloxera vines. Musky, fragrant and open – more aromatically exotic than the Le Méal, but still with tangy acidity and excellent mealy persistence. Wonderfully slow and stately in length. (RH)

The 2017 Ermitage l'Ermite is equally astounding but a completely different expression of Hermitage. Somehow this combines the reservedness of le Pavillon with the generosity of le Méal, resulting in a wine that I can only describe as perfect. The pristine cassis fruit is remarkably pure, joined by complex notes of crushed stone, salted licorice and the slightest hints of fine-grained oak. It's full-bodied, concentrated and velvety in texture, with oodles of chewy but ripe tannins and a finish that goes on for minutes.