Tasted blind in a 1991 horizontal for Wine magazine. A very tight, but incredibly intense nose of blackberry, tar and saddle-leather. The palate has a smooth entry, a velutinous texture with seamless tannins. The oak is beautifully integrated with immense poise: like a giant on a high wire. Black fruits, cherry, tar and black olives on the finish. Awesome. Tasted June 1999.

Saturated ruby color. Superripe, warm aromas of cassis, plum, chocolate and roasted meat, and livelier and more primary than those of the regular cuvee. Huge, lush, thick and layered in the mouth; impressively deep flavors of cassis and chocolate are a bit heavy for the vintage. I would have picked this blind as a '90. A bit monolithic and undifferentiated today, but this very powerful wine is still an infant. Finishes with major mouthdusting (wood?) tannins. Undeniably impressive, but could use a bit more refinement.

Deep garnet colour. Absolutely stunning nose with gorgeous earthy character, a touch of soy and leather, still-fresh black fruit but also mushroom and rich milk chocolate. Incredible how youthful and energetic this can be – still quite firmly tannic too. Expressive, long and enchanting. (RH)

Pale ruby. Bit past it, alas. Very evolved nose with some buttery quality. Drying out on the finish. I wonder whether this was an unusually bad bottle? (JR)

This is a Le Pavilion of mythical proportions. Produced from extremely old vines, some dating from the mid-nineteenth century, with yields averaging under 15 hectoliters per hectare, this is the richest, most concentrated and profound wine made in Hermitage. The 1991 Ermitage Le Pavilion follows the pattern of the 1989 and 1990-it is another perfect wine. The saturated black/purple color is followed by a compelling bouquet of spices, roasted meats, and black and red fruits. Enormously concentrated yet with brilliant focus and delineation to its awesomely endowed personality, this extraordinary wine should age effortlessly for three plus decades. Very powerful and full, yet displaying silky tannin, this is a seamless beauty! Anticipated maturity: 2001-2035