1995 M. Chapoutier, Ermitage, Le Pavillon

The 1995 Ermitage Le Pavillon is magnificent. The wine is more accessible than the 1996 (due to lower acidity and more immediately accessible glycerin and fruit), with a magnificent black/purple color, and layers of cassis fruit, smoky, roasted meat, and mineral characteristics that are the result of barrel fermentation and high extraction of fruit. It is huge, but not heavy, gorgeously proportioned, and dazzlingly well-defined. A monster Hermitage of immense proportions, it somehow manages to keep everything in balance. This backward Pavillon will require 10-12 years of cellaring. It should age well through the first half of the next century.

The 2009 Ermitage Le Pavillon is another tour de force from Michel Chapoutier, and like the 1996, is drinking brilliantly today. Offering a huge nose of smoky black fruits, cured meats, asphalt, pepper and a liquid rock-like minerality, it offers full-bodied richness, incredible concentration, and ripe, sweet tannin that are still covered by a wealth of fruit. It’s an incredible Hermitage to drink anytime over the coming two decades or more.

Tasted blind at "The Arches". A deep black/garnet hue. A beautiful, sensuous nose, fleshy with cherry liqueur, macerated black cherries and iodine. The palate has lovely balance, seamless tannins with such a seductive, silky texture. A beautiful wine that has been polished to perfection. Touch of liquorices on the finish. Drink now, but it has the balance and weight to last years. Tasted May 2006.