Year in and year out, one of the three greatest Hermitages made is Chapoutier’s Le Pavillon. The black/blue-colored 2000 Ermitage Le Pavillon is brilliant out of bottle. Notes of graphite, ink, licorice, creme de cassis, and minerals jump from the glass of this syrup of Hermitage. Full-bodied, unctuously-textured, gorgeously rich, spectacularly concentrated and long, it is a tour de force in winemaking. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2040. (I disagree, but Michel Chapoutier feels his finest three Le Pavillons to date have been 1991 followed by 1995 and 2000. I retain a preference for the glorious trilogy of 1989, 1990, and 1991.)

Now fully mature, the 2000 Ermitage Le Pavillon reveals a healthy ruby hue as well a quintessential perfume of red and black fruits, scorched earth, leather, graphite, and roasted herbs, and if this beauty doesn't make you think Hermitage, I don't know what will. Its notes all carry over to the palate, where the wine has shed its baby fat and today shows a still full-bodied, concentrated style with a liquid granite-like sense of minerality, flawless overall balance, mostly resolved tannins, and a still layered core of sweet fruit. The overall impression here is of a fabulous Hermitage in its prime. I love it today and see no need to delay gratification, but well-stored bottles should easily evolve for another 15-20 years.

The nose is more broody and closed, a tad leafy and stalky. The palate is masculine, tannic with an impressive grip. Chewy tannins, blackberry, burnt toast, truffle. Still very tight, though I could not help feeling it lacks a little charm at the moment, hence the parsimonious score. Tasted May 2006.