Very classically Pavillon in its aromatic display, with hoisin sauce and some cassis and blackberry. Fine tannins, but this is not a huge vintage, a more Burgundian expression of Le Pavillon. Not terribly concentrated like some recent vintages, this will drink well young. Fresh, with strong acidity and an underlying smoky note. A lovely wine, but an atypically fine and compact Pavillon. From lieu-dit Les Bessards.

Chapoutier's 2021 Ermitage le Pavillon features scents of crushed stone, cedar shavings and red raspberries on the nose. A top-notch effort from a challenging vintage, it's medium to full-bodied, quite taut and firm in the mouth but ripe and silky on the finish.

Coming mostly from the east side of the Bessards lieu-dit, just under the chapel, the 2021 Ermitage Le Pavillon is in the running for the red of the vintage. Sporting a healthy purple hue as well as gorgeous aromatics of pure cassis, spring flowers, graphite, and ground pepper, it hits the palate with medium-bodied richness, a balanced, elegant mouthfeel, ripe, fine-grained tannins, and a classy, pure, layered style that's already just about impossible to resist. It's not going to rival a great vintage of this cuvée, but it has classic Hermitage character and is incredibly satisfying. Give bottles 3-4 years and enjoy over the following 15-20 years. This was another fabulous tasting with Michel Chapoutier and his team, and it continues to be one of the highlight tastings I do in a year. The portfolio is massive, so there’s certainly something in here for everyone. Looking at the 2021s, I was able to retaste a handful of the flagship whites, and these appear to have shut down slightly. I wouldn’t touch bottles for another 3-5 years. The reds are leaner and focused, but balanced, and certainly impeccably made. However, the 2022s continue to trend here, starting around 2017 or 2018, toward fresher, lighter wines, both with the reds and whites. In addition, they’re all experimenting with whole cluster fermentations, which works beautifully in the wines I was able to taste.

Granite with petrichor aromas. From 4 ha of Les Bessards and 65-year-old vines. Yield 25–30 hl/ha. Cask sample. Much deeper crimson than Les Greffieux. Really quite intense. Haunting aromas and gorgeously layered with concentrated, velvety fruit within a fine corset. Really lovely wine with great ripeness and smokiness. Firm and Hermitage-like but with great expression and appeal already. Dangerously drinkable! (JR)