The thickest, most unctuous, full-bodied and sexy white of the vintage is the 2014 Ermitage de l’Orée. Coming all from the sedimentary soils of the Les Murets and aged mostly in demi-muids (only 15% new), it offers a sensational perfume of caramelized peaches, campfire, honeysuckle and white flowers that literally come soaring from the glass. Possessing uncommon density, a stacked mid-palate, loads of sweet fruit and a blockbuster finish, this hedonistic effort can be drunk with incredibly pleasure today, or cellared for a decade or more. It will have three or more decades of overall longevity.

Full bottle 1,394 g. Certified-biodynamic Marsanne from Les Murets. A mild winter was followed by a very dry spring and by a summer with worryingly heavy rains in August - but biodynamic practices seem to have kept the fruit healthy. This late release is presented in a special wooden case. Deep gold. High-toned green veggie notes with a mealy undertow. Honey, too, but it sort of splits the difference between the 2013 de l'Orée and 2014 Méal (my favourite). Good definition and reasonable freshness plus the structure to develop further. Quite long and pungent. Really spreads across the palate on the finish. Unctuous texture. Not a wine for casual sipping but one to be carefully matched to a specific (rich?) dish. A hint of ginger on the finish. Lots of satisfaction. (JR)