Of the three sélection parcellaire whites, the 2015 Ermitage de l’Orée is the most fresh and lively, with full-bodied richness and depth in its pineapple, mint, tropical fruits, toasted bread, brioche and liquid rock-styled aromas and flavors. It has good acidity, a stacked mid-palate and one seriously long finish.

Harmonious aromas of blanched almonds, honey, lemon verbena and candle wax. Totally caresses the palate, it’s so rich and satin textured. Subtle, attractive bitter notes help to bring structure; the acidity is low but it’s not problematic, this is still majestic. Phenomenal length, ending on savoury almond nougat notes from the oak, which has been used judiciously and to excellent effect, supporting and shaping the wine without dominating the fruit or sense of place. It could only be white Hermitage, and it's a classic, excellent example.

Vivid yellow-gold. Powerful, mineral-accented orange, melon, white peach, toasted brioche and iodine scents show impressive focus and vivacity. Displays a compelling blend of depth and energy, offering concentrated, mineral-tinged citrus and pit fruit, honey and candied fig flavors complemented by a subtle anise quality. Finishes with outstanding focus and lift, leaving behind suave floral and mineral notes.

Full bottle 1,384 g. Certified biodynamic. From a very hot year. 60- to 70-year-old Marsanne form Les Murets. Very old fluvioglacial alluvial deposits. After pressing, the must is cold-settled for 24 hours. About 50% is vinified in 600-litre wooden barrels with regular stirring; the rest in 'vats'. Matured on lees for 10 to 12 months, with stirring for six months. Rich, beeswax nose but with some obvious tension too. Round and honeyed. This is a complex wine that will need careful food-matching. Shellfish perhaps? And we'll try it with a creamy chicken-liver parfait tonight. Special wine, full-bodied but refreshing and almost nervy. Light bitterness on the end. (JR)